Reviewed · REYKJAVIK TOURS
Reykjavík: Multi-Sensory Art Installation Chromo Sapiens
Chromo Sapiens turns a former wartime shelter into a playful trip through three caves made from synthetic hair. Icelandic artist Shoplifter, also known as Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir, uses color, texture, and sound to pull your attention away from the outside world and toward your own reactions. I like the freedom to touch the installation and the calm, almost meditative mood created by HAM’s soundscapes. The catch is simple: at $28, some people may find three rooms and about an hour a little expensive.
I especially like that you can walk in any day without choosing a time slot, then linger with a coffee or soft drink included in the ticket. The café, bar, gift shop, and outdoor seating also make Höfuðstöðin more than a quick art stop. If you prefer paintings, labels, and a clear story, this may feel too short or too silly.
Key points to know before you go

- Three rooms form the entire artwork: The installation is compact, but each cave has its own color, texture, and sound.
- Synthetic hair is the main material: You are invited to touch the soft, unusual surfaces rather than keep your hands behind your back.
- HAM supplies the soundscapes: The Icelandic band’s music fills each cave and helps create the work’s quiet, reflective mood.
- Your ticket includes a drink: Coffee or a soft drink is included, while food and alcoholic drinks cost extra.
- No booking time is needed: Höfuðstöðin accepts walk-ins every day, with a ticket valid for one hour from first activation.
What Chromo Sapiens is trying to do

Chromo Sapiens began at the Icelandic Pavilion during the 2019 Venice Biennale, where it gained international attention. In Reykjavík, the work gives you a chance to encounter it at Höfuðstöðin, a former military site with an unusual past of its own.
The installation is built from Shoplifter’s signature material, synthetic hair extensions. That choice changes your idea of what art can be. You do not simply look at a sculpture from across a room. You move into it, feel its surfaces, listen to the sound, and let the color fill your view.
The concept is that you enter as homo sapiens and leave as Chromo Sapiens. That sounds grand, but the actual experience is less about learning a lesson and more about noticing how your senses respond when familiar surroundings disappear.
You are the destination of the journey, rather than a historical figure, a famous building, or a distant natural sight. The work asks you to slow down and pay attention to your own mood. For some people, that becomes a peaceful pause in a busy Reykjavík day. For others, it may feel like an art joke stretched across three rooms.
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Entering Höfuðstöðin and finding the installation

Höfuðstöðin is in Reykjavík’s Capital Region, and you enter through the main door. The complex opened in 2022 in restored army barracks that once served as bomb shelters during the Second World War.
The buildings later moved to their current location and were used for decades as potato nurseries. That backstory gives the visit a useful sense of place. You are not walking into a standard white gallery built only for art. You are entering a reused working site with several chapters in its history.
The art installation is part of a wider venue with a gift shop, café, bar, outdoor seating, and event space. I would allow a little time before or after the artwork to look around and have your included drink. Food and alcoholic beverages are not part of the ticket, so expect to pay extra if you want a meal or a drink from the bar.
The setting matters because Chromo Sapiens is not a full-day museum visit. The surrounding café and event space give the stop more weight, especially if you are already exploring this part of Reykjavík. If you only come for the installation, you can see the main work in roughly an hour.
The first cave: leaving ordinary Reykjavík behind

The installation unfolds through three colorful caves. The supplied details do not assign official names or fixed themes to the rooms, so you should think of them as three connected stages rather than three separate attractions.
At the entrance, the main change is visual. Synthetic hair surrounds your line of sight, replacing the clean edges of an ordinary room with thick, tactile surfaces. The effect is immediate: instead of scanning a display, you start noticing color, shape, sound, and the feeling of moving through a material normally associated with wigs or fashion.
You are allowed to touch the work. That is one of the best details here, because touching is normally forbidden in galleries. Here, it is part of the point. Your hands help you understand the scale and texture of the piece, and the act of moving through the material makes the installation feel less like a picture and more like a place.
Do not expect a guide to lead you through a set script. The host or greeter speaks English and Icelandic, but the visit is designed for personal exploration. You can move at your own pace, pause, and decide how much attention to give the sound or the material.
This first section is likely to work best if you resist the urge to hurry. A quick look can leave you thinking that it is simply a colorful room. A slower visit gives the textures and music time to change your sense of the space.
The second cave: sound becomes part of the artwork

Soundscapes by the Icelandic band HAM play in each cave. The music is not a small background detail. It surrounds your hearing and helps separate the installation from the normal noises of Reykjavík.
The result has been compared to a sound bath or meditation by people who stayed for a long time. That comparison is useful, but you should not expect a formal meditation session or a wellness treatment. There is no stated instruction to sit, breathe, or follow a guide. The work simply gives you a darkened, colorful, enclosed setting where listening becomes easier.
I like this part of the design because the sound keeps the rooms from being only visual. Synthetic hair can be striking to look at and touch, but the music adds an emotional layer. It can make the space feel gentle and calm, or strange and theatrical, depending on your taste.
The music also explains why the visit can take longer than the advertised one hour. One pass through the rooms may be enough for you. Another person may want to return after watching an explanation of the artwork, then notice details that were easy to miss the first time.
A useful tip is to treat the first walk-through as an introduction rather than a test. You do not need to understand the work immediately. Let yourself see how the color, touch, and sound affect you before deciding what you think.
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The third cave: a playful ending, not a grand finale

The last cave completes the movement through the installation. By this point, you have become familiar with the basic idea: you are inside the artwork, you can touch it, and the sound helps shape the mood.
The phrase Chromo Sapiens suggests a change in identity, but the work does not provide a literal transformation. You leave with a different frame of mind, perhaps calmer or more cheerful, but the experience remains open to interpretation. That looseness is part of its appeal and also the source of its main weakness.
If you enjoy art that invites a personal response, the final room can feel like a satisfying release from normal gallery rules. If you want a clear conclusion or a large number of separate exhibits, you may reach the exit and think, Is that all?
That reaction is not unreasonable. The installation is only three rooms. The artist has made those rooms large in sensory effect, but not large in number. I would not book Chromo Sapiens as your only cultural activity in Reykjavík. I would pair it with other plans and treat it as a concentrated hour of art.
Why the synthetic hair matters

The material is not a gimmick added for color. Synthetic hair is Shoplifter’s signature medium, and its physical presence gives the installation its identity.
Hair is familiar but also slightly odd when used at an architectural scale. You know what it is, yet you do not usually walk through it or find it covering the walls of a public art space. That tension makes the rooms memorable.
The material also gives you permission to use more than your eyes. You can run your hands over it and notice its softness, density, and movement. For children and tactile-minded adults, this may be the most enjoyable part of the visit.
You should still follow the venue’s directions and treat the work with care. The fact that touching is allowed does not mean rough handling is expected. The installation is meant to be felt, not pulled apart.
How much time should you allow?

The ticket is valid for one hour from first activation, and the advertised duration is one hour. That is enough time for a straightforward visit through all three caves.
In practice, the stop can be longer. A particularly enthusiastic visit lasted at least two hours, with a return to the installation after watching a video in which the artist explained the work. The supplied information does not promise that this video will always be available, so do not build your schedule around it.
A practical plan looks like this:
- Allow about one hour for the standard visit.
- Add time for the café, bar, outdoor seating, or gift shop.
- Stay longer only if you find the sound and textures worth revisiting.
- Do not assume the installation offers a long sequence of separate exhibits.
This flexible length is helpful in Reykjavík, where weather can alter your plans. You can fit Chromo Sapiens between other activities without surrendering half a day. The short format is also why the price deserves careful thought.
Is $28 a fair price?

At $28 per person, Chromo Sapiens is not a bargain attraction. The included coffee or soft drink improves the value, but it does not turn the ticket into a low-cost outing.
I would judge the price by the kind of art you enjoy. If you like unusual installations, sensory art, and spaces that encourage you to form your own response, the ticket can feel reasonable. You are paying for a purpose-built encounter rather than a conventional gallery with many rooms.
If you expect a large museum, a guided tour, or several hours of entertainment, the price may disappoint. One person described the work as too short and silly, and that reaction points to the central value question. The installation is compact and concept-driven. Its success depends more on your willingness to play along than on the number of things you see.
The free drink is a thoughtful extra, especially if you use the café afterward. Food and alcoholic beverages are not included, and gift shop purchases are also separate. I would book it when you want one distinctive Reykjavík activity, not when you are trying to stretch a limited sightseeing budget.
Who will enjoy the three caves most?

Chromo Sapiens suits you if you like art that uses your whole body. The chance to touch the material, listen to music from HAM, and move through color makes it a good choice for anyone tired of looking at framed works behind barriers.
It also suits couples and friends who want something unusual and easy to discuss afterward. You can compare which room affected you most, or simply enjoy how strange the whole setup is.
Families may appreciate the tactile quality, though the supplied details do not give an age recommendation. You should decide based on the children in your group and their ability to treat the installation gently.
The experience may also appeal to you after a busy day of sightseeing. Several people found it calming and happiness-inducing, with one comparison to meditation. I would choose it when you want a quiet sensory break rather than another information-heavy attraction.
You may want to skip it if you need a detailed explanation, a long itinerary, or a strong historical focus. The building has an interesting past, but Chromo Sapiens itself is contemporary art. The point is sensation and interpretation, not a guided lesson.
Practical details that affect your visit
Höfuðstöðin is open every day, and walk-ins are accepted. You do not need to select a time slot, which makes this easier to fit around Reykjavík’s changeable weather and other plans.
The host or greeter can assist in English or Icelandic. The installation is wheelchair accessible, an important detail for anyone checking access before booking.
You can cancel up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund, and the reserve-now, pay-later option keeps payment flexible. Those policies are useful if your Iceland schedule may shift, but the main practical advantage is still the lack of a fixed entry time.
The ticket includes entry and one coffee or soft drink. Food, alcohol, and gift shop purchases cost extra. Enter through the main door of Höfuðstöðin, then follow the venue’s directions to the installation.
My booking advice
I would book Chromo Sapiens if you want something unlike Iceland’s usual museums, viewpoints, and geothermal stops. The best parts are specific and unusual: touchable synthetic hair, HAM’s enveloping sound, and three rooms designed to change how you notice color and space.
I would think twice if $28 feels high for an hour or if you prefer a larger attraction. You may finish quickly and feel the work is more playful than profound. The included drink and the wider Höfuðstöðin setting help, but they do not change the installation’s small scale.
For the right audience, this is a memorable pause in Reykjavík. Go with an open mind, slow down, and let the work be strange. If you need a full afternoon of sights, choose another attraction and save Chromo Sapiens for a day when a short, sensory reset sounds more appealing.
FAQ
How long does Chromo Sapiens take?
The stated duration is one hour, and the ticket is valid for one hour from first activation. You may stay longer if the venue permits and you choose to revisit the installation or spend time at Höfuðstöðin.
How many rooms are in the installation?
Chromo Sapiens consists of three colorful caves made from synthetic hair extensions.
Can I touch the artwork?
Yes. Touching the installation is allowed and forms an important part of the sensory experience.
Is a coffee or soft drink included?
Yes. Entry includes a coffee or soft drink. Food and alcoholic beverages are not included.
Do I need to choose an entry time?
No. The installation is open every day, and walk-ins are accepted without a scheduled time slot.
Is Chromo Sapiens wheelchair accessible?
Yes. The installation is wheelchair accessible. Hosts or greeters can assist in English and Icelandic.
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